Eisa for the Fun of it!

Those of us who live on Okinawa started to notice something going on back in early June. Perhaps it was the rhythmic beat of the drums in the cool evening air. On some occasions, maybe you heard the occasional sound of chanting or singing accompanying it. If you braved the heat and humidity to venture out to investigate, perhaps you even noticed the gatherings of young people practicing a strange ritual dance.

This strange behavior climaxes in July and runs through the Obon festivities in August. Here on Okinawa, nothing says summer more than an Eisa Festival. They’re a summer-time staple here in the goya Republic and just about every weekend you’ll find one happening somewhere!

During the festivals, throughout the sweltering days and on into the sultry nights, the air is filled with the rhythmic beat of drums and the atmosphere is nothing short of electric. The surroundings seem to be enchanted and everyone is in the mood for having a good time.

In addition to the Eisa dance troupes from around the island competing against each other, there are also special performances of classic Ryukyu dance, Shisa dances and hoards of little people from various preschools are all dressed up and doing their best to stay in time with the music. Sometimes the performers even make the trip from some of the outlying islands to compete.

The beginnings of Eisa are not entirely certain. Most accounts give it a Buddhist origin. Throw in a pinch of Taoism with a dash of Confucianism and you probably have it just about right. To the uninitiated, each dance routine looks similar. There is however, a subtle variation that is unique to each town. Over the years uniforms worn have become more colorful and the style of music can vary from the more traditional to modern pop.

Some have said that Eisa is the dance for the dead. While the predominant religious belief here centers on Ancestor’s worship there is far more to it than that. Eisa is for the young and old alike and is just as much for the living as it is for remembrance. It’s about life, bountiful harvests and the hopes for the future. Most of all, it’s about getting together and having fun.

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Naha's China Gardens

When people think of things Chinese, images of San Francisco or Yokohama's famous Chinatown often comes to mind. Naha Okinawa doesn't immediately come to mind but perhaps it should. Okinawa has had strong ties to China throughout the centuries, Naha doesn’t really have a Chinatown district per se. What they do have is a serene garden park dedicated to the original Chinese families that immigrated here many years ago.



As part of a trade pact made between the King of the Ryukyus and the Emperor of China, a group of Chinese scholars, doctors, monks and their families came to Okinawa to live amongst and chronicle the daily activities of life here. With them they brought medicine and knowledge. In exchange, they were given a tract of land on which to live and study. Today, the Fukushuen garden park rests where the original Chinese settlement once stood.

Entrance to the park is free. An attendant is usually stationed by the entrance to sign you in and out as you come and go. There are no brochures on display to guide you around the park. As a result, there doesn’t seem to be the sense of rush to see a particular site or attraction. Perhaps that’s the beauty of the place.

This is a place you want to take your time and see at your leisure. There are numerous reflection pools, fountains, waterfalls along with the buildings that feature distinctly Chinese architecture. The walking paths are meticulously manicured and there are plenty of places just to stop and fritter away the hours in a relaxing atmosphere.

The many ponds are brimming with Japanese Koi goldfish and lots of hungry turtles that will come right up to you and beg for food. If you’re interested, there is several fish food dispensers strategically placed about the park. Be advised that food and beverages may not be brought into nor is smoking allowed anywhere in the gardens. Though the setting would be ideal, this is not the place to bring your picnic lunch.

The main attraction is the central reflection pool and the great waterfall. There are two separate paths that lead to a Chinese pavilion above the waterfall. From that vantage point, you can look in all directions at the many buildings that surround the park and think of all the hustle and bustle of the big city. That’s when you begin to appreciate the serenity of the place. For those who would prefer to drive, there are a few parking places at the city park across the street. The park is open from 9am until 6pm, six days a week. It’s closed on Wednesdays and Japanese holidays.

The park is a short walk, less than ten minutes, from the heart of Naha and the Ken-Cho-Mae monorail station near the Prefectural Office Building, Kokusai Street and the Ryubo Shopping Center. From the monorail station, head west towards highway 58. For those that are interested, that intersection along highway 58 is where they hold the world famous tug-o-war every fall. Cross the highway and walk up the small hill and then it’s just a few more blocks. Along the way you’ll see the Naha high school on the north side of the street. Look for the long whitewashed wall that borders the south-side of the street. The Fukushuen gardens are behind that wall. A few more yards and you’re at the main entrance.


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